MERCEDES-BENZ FASHION WEEK RUSSIA, OCTOBER 2020 SEASON, DAY 3
21.10.2020
  1. CHELSEA GRAYS (USA)
Designed by Chelsea Grays

Chelsea, previously recognized by the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) and listed as 1 of 8 "designers to watch out for" by i-D Magazine, is poised to unveil a new collection created in Paris during quarantine. The brand is known for raising awareness through fashion, using fashion as a basis for self-expression and exploration.



Collection

The 2020 collection is inspired by a vast series of supercompositional paintings created by Grays as an expression of the world around us. Colors, media, words are organic, and the concept is embodied in the artist's clothing.



In honor of the paintings, Chelsea, while staying true to aesthetics, created mixed media garments with weaving, embroidery, spray painting and screen printing.



The atmosphere of the collection is that of a person living with his grandmother. Grandma's house is a cozy place, colorful, clean, but over cluttered. This is depicted using fabrics: wool, cotton, nylon, etc., as well as recycled / recycled clothing in the collection.



These looks are created from recycled fabrics, recycled clothing, and recycled materials (like bath rugs, bedspreads, etc.) with small details. Using vibrant saturated colors and manipulating yarns and fabrics to create depth and texture.



The accessories do justice to the mesh fabrics in the collection, creating a fusion of clean and dirty, rich and poor. The items are cool, tricky, and a little untidy all in one.



The high-end streetwear collection is used to nudge the narrative: "We're all different, but we're all the same."





2. Fashion a la Russe project's participants



Kazakova Olga

Designed by Olga Kazakova



Kazakova Olga is a young creative brand from Krasnodar. The main principles of the designer are creative utility and femininity. The flight of the designer's imagination always coexists with the practical idea of where and in what context this thing can be worn.



An important aspect of Olga's creativity is a careful attitude to resources, economical thoughtful cutting and styles "out of trends". Each product of the brand is created in a single copy and is not repeated.



The new collection of SS-21 is called Blooming Femininity. Blooming Femininity is an ode to brightness. The collection was created from natural and synthetic fabrics produced in the 70-90s at Krasnodar factories. The new show was streamed live from Krasnodar, and featured bright and airy dresses in classic Russian linen patterns, accompanied by exotic accessories with a floral theme. The color palette ranged from soft grassy greens to strawberry red, to deep cerulean. A traditionally-beautiful Russian collection, bringing the craftsmanship of the region to the forefront.





KLIMOVSKIKH

Designed by Valeria Klimovskikh



The concept of the collection is based on the work of the renowned Swiss psychiatrist Carl Gustav Jung. He created a theory in which a personality could be divided into four fundamental parts / layers. The first is the image of society, observing the individual throughout his life, which is expressed through many eyes. Then comes the Anima / Animus, the fourth layer of personality, which reflects the masculine in the feminine and the feminine in the masculine. It is conveyed through the contrast of straight lines and the softness of the fabric. The next one is the image of the Shadow, our dark self, which represents the arms hugging the person from the back. The fourth image is the Ego, the inner core of the personality, in other words, the skeleton. The last, but the first according to Jung's classification, is the image of the Person - the social self of every person. Its main attribute is a broken mirror, as a symbol of plurality in personality. Thus, through her collection, the designer wanted to convey the idea that there is no more harmonious personality than one who knows how to open from different sides and at the same time remains one whole.



This conceptual collection blended thick deep-color fabrics with light traditional sewing, and innovative silhouetting.



ValNa Fashion

Designed by Nadezhda Belousova



The collection is dedicated to Roy, Wenji and Helina Alvarez, a Native American family, whose house in 1996 became the home for a month for the designer Nadezhda Belousova as part of a cultural exchange program between countries. And also, her relatives, who are no longer around.



The designer has always been inspired by bright colors and ethnic motives. This collection is her interpretation of outerwear through metaphors of vital natural phenomena and non-standard color combinations used in Indian outfits. Their connection with nature and pride in their history made Roots in the broadest sense of this meaning - the symbol of the collection and the leitmotif of the technique of its creation. The main colors of the collection are khaki, earthy, natural colors of nature. Material - polystyrene foam tubes of different diameters, raincoat fabric, eco-leather, velour, knitwear.



The eco influences were prevalent in the collection, with root-like constructions intertwining and forming dresses, coats and long gowns, or shaping portraits of people inside the fabric.





  1. CHAIN (Argentina)
Designed by Lucía Chain

Founded in 2017

CHAIN is a fashion brand committed to the environment. Their designs are made by hand in their little studio with raw local fabrics and organic dyes. Zero waste patterns, a-gender fits and slow production make their biodegradable clothing stand the test of time and trends. The last collection was produced during quarantine with materials the designer had in her studio. She used a straight machine to control the excessive use of polyester threads. The main feature of the collection are handmade buttons with recycled wood.



The brand has presented REBORN, seasonless digital collection. A questioning of the future, a search to be reborn from a discomfort, to change, to question ourselves, to understand ourselves from a contemporary perspective, projecting ourselves towards a future in motion. What is reality? What can we transform into? How are the spaces that we can inhabit? The planet is disappearing, let's not reach the limit of having to reconstruct it artificially. Digitally designed collection, based on the reconstruction of the emblematic garments of our brand, to call us to reflect and always return to our roots, take tools to build the future in a dynamic way. CHAIN. Wild, raw, vegetal, biodegradable ... A sophisticated rebellion shown in the simplicity of nature.



This virtual presentation included shimmering robes and puffer coats, multilayering and an adaptable and garments featuring several coats with prominent multiple pockets, accessorized with puffy white backpacks, belts and shimmery holographic sandals.





  1. LOKOTO
Designed by Lena Anikeeva

Founded in 2018

LOKOTO is a futuristic clothing brand founded by Lena Anikeeva, the founder of the Pixies graphic design studio. Many years of experience as an art director was embodied in matter: an approach to clothing as to architecture - silhouette, strict lines and convenience are primary.

The brand makes jewelry in collaboration with Moscow jewelers using 925 sterling silver and manual labor. Regardless of gender, LOKOTO is a clothing for radical self-expression: women and men are equal, but different; clothes of freedom, in which you can go to a business meeting and then trample space dust in the desert at a wild rave. You can be a founder, columnist, artist, activist and even a little exhibitionist in it.



Dark, classic and elegant cuts were the name of the game for this collection by Anikeeva, which featured prominent black dresses and outerwear, evening gowns in bright lipstick red and deep black, nurse-uniform-white jackets and suits - all in a geometric, rectangular shape. Freeform wraparound white tops were also seen, all accessorized with veils, small fascinators, half-capes and metallic jewelry and facial adornments. Rounding up the show was a series of black, white and red robes, worn with statement face paint and reminding one of the works of Soviet constructivist masters.





  1. N.LEGENDA
Designed by Olga Kapitonova

Founded in 2012

N.LEGENDA brand was created in September 2012 by Olga Kapitonova, a graduate and master of St. Petersburg State University of Industrial Technology and Design.



The main concept is a minimalist drama. Light "schizo" vibe gives the N.LEGENDA brand a unique charm. With an interest in psychology and anatomy, N. LEGENDA creates a faceless fit for the individual, not afraid to talk about gender and mix different styles. The cut of the brand is distinguished by thoughtfulness, purity and laconicism.



The SS-21 collection is a galactic remix - each bow is as if tailored to cosmic realities. Having established itself as a lover of fabrics with visual effects, this time, N. LEGENDA brings its collection the shade of a dark sky with a myriad of stars of an endless universe. The main 4 colors are galactic blue, epoxy brown, mother-of-pearl gasoline and corrugated silver.



In the images of the collection, the cut of jackets, raincoats and jackets creates a graphic shell.

The main outfits of the collection are interpreted classic suits, parkas and trench coats that embody grunge and glamor in equal measure.



The laconic cut is diluted with metallic elements, which allows you to combine wearable luxury with rock 'n' roll echoes.



Silvery and wild, this collection was the epitome of N. LEGENDA and a rock'n'roll feel flowed throughout.



  1. LUBOVI
Designed by Lubov Popova



LUBOVI is a young eco-friendly brand that creates clothes only from natural fabrics of the highest quality.

The LUBOVI brand was created for a real woman who loves and values herself. Clothing raises to a state of lightness, grace and love for everything beautiful, it is ideal for both social events and everyday life. She is as beautiful inside as she is outside.



The LUBOVI brand values the uniqueness and uniqueness of each client; for sewing products, designers mainly use silk, as well as cotton and wool - fabrics with which the skin will breathe in unison. Buttons and decorative fittings are made of stones, mother of pearl, horn. The labels are made of cotton. LUBOVI cares about the environment, that's why they use designer cardboard made using the latest technology from recycled coffee cups for packaging and printed products.



The brand knows how important it is to give love not only to the surrounding world, but also to oneself, so the entire collection is permeated with it. Together with the threads, feminine strength and energy were put into each product. Light jackets and shimmery dresses of white and grey comprised most of this collection, with beautiful slips and nightgowns underneath.



  1. OTOCYON
Designed by Lesya Volchok-Rusakovich

Founded in 2015

OTOCYON is a Russian brand of women's clothing and accessories, created in 2015 in Moscow by Lesya Volchok-Rusakovich.



In her collections, the designer explores the ideas of a new femininity, seeking to reveal this concept within the framework of modernity.



Modern femininity is, first of all, self-sufficiency and meaningfulness, uniqueness, where clothes are only a delicate frame that emphasizes the character of the wearer. The main visual codes of the brand are a combination of architectural lines and flowing abstract forms, a restrained cut, neat but expressive details, a nuanced color palette. All products are produced in small quantities.



The FW-20/21 collection is titled Soft Power. This collection is dedicated to the idea of femininity, the idea of it as energy or sensation. Here, inspiration is intertwined with the works of sculptors Constantin Brancusi and Barbara Hepworth, Sandro Botticelli's painting "Spring", memories of his mother from the designer's childhood. The collection uses the characteristic visual codes of the brand, and an interesting addition is the use of silicone and upcycling of various vintage items, such as shoes and accessories.



Semi-transparent wispy suits of gentle beige and peach-pink, glittery eveningwear of light cherry and tight-fitting nude garments comprised the bigger part of the collection, each one as if crafted specifically for the model. These were coupled with cotton pantsuits in the latter part of the collection, as well as with asymmetric pleated skirts toned with pink gold.







  1. MARFA FEDOROVA
Designed by Marfa Fedorova



Marfa Fedorova is a talented Yakut designer who is not afraid to take risks and discover something new. Her collections are a combination of crazy colors and outlandish textures. They are inspired by the atmosphere of megacities: Moscow, London and New York.



"Awakening" is a collection about freedom and new energy that arises in a person from communication with nature. The designer used mainly wool and linen. This is the mood of a vacation in nature, where, Marfa is sure, you need to return from the busy life of the metropolis in order to recover and recharge.



The final show of the day, Fedorova presented a gorgeous and modern take on streetwear, with deconstructed trousers and straight-cut coats of deep terracotta and black. Puffy bucket hats, hi-cut vests and raincoats in muted blues, greys and greens accompanied this collection, giving it a Scandinavian feel. Woolen coats rounded up this collection, which felt perfect for a trip to Norway or to rainy Saint-Petersburg.






The title partner of the Fashion Week is Mercedes-Benz.


Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia partners: Mary Kay® (Official Make-Up Artist), MONÉ PROFESSIONAL (Official Style Artist), Aizel.ru (Official Partner), DHL (Official Logistics Partner), Laska (Official Partner).



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