Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia started in the Museum of Moscow. On October 19, the following brands held their catwalk shows – Kod Mody, Online Academy of Branding and Design METRICS, SEYANA, ABZAEVA, RigRaiser, and ALENA NEGA. Other brands demonstrated their video presentations, including Kyle Ho, Elena Souproun, and Brazil Immersive Fashion Week presents LUCAS LEÃO.
On the same day, Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia launched #FashionWeekHouse as a part of the annual MBFW Russia reality show in collaboration with TikTok, the top app for short videos making and watching. Throughout the Fashion Week, MBFW Russia's official account @mbfwrussia will bring together 5 talented creators, fashion experts and authors for TikTok – Alex in style (@alexinstyle
), Lana Nisnevich (@nisnevich
), Astemir (@astemir.me
), Evgeny Stelmah (@jeniastelmah
), and Nastya Yanb (@nastya.yanb
The annual reality show was resumed in the MBFW Russia's official TikTok account (@mbfwrussia
). A remarkable event of Day 1 was the live stream in TikTok where speakers discussed trends and anti-trends, considered the subject of street style, and tried to predict the fashion trends. The live stream was participated by Anton Gulevsky, digital fashion editor for Harper's Bazaar, author of That's Haute Telegram channel; Liza Tyan (@el.tyan), personal stylist, fashion blogger, founder and designer of a clothing brand; Oxana Bachina, content director for EcoLine Group; Alisa Bokha, designer for MONOCHROME; Astemir (@astemir.me) – fashion blogger and stylist; Yana Polyaninova, fashion editor for InStyle.ru; Lina Dembikova (@linadembikova), fashion businesswoman, celebrity stylist, founder of the StyleHunter fashion school and the first dress rental Dress Up Bar, TV presenter; Grisha Besko, photographer, author of the watchingmoscow project; Anastasia Fedoseeva, street style photographer; and Darya Klimenko, expert on Italy, journalist.
Another centerpiece of Day 1 was a public talk with designer Igor Chapurin, where they discussed how to follow slow fashion and stay trendy.
Russian Fashion Council together with EcoLine Group, the top waste treatment operator for Moscow and the Moscow Region, and Vtoroe Dykhanie Fund have arranged a second-hand clothing collection point in the yard of the Museum of Moscow. It will be open every day till October 23 from 2 p.m. till 9 p.m. Further, the unwanted clothes handed in will be reused. Russian upcycling designers will use some of them in their collections to be presented during the next MBFW Russia season.
On Day 1, the following brands presented their collections at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia.
The brand's collection Ahimsa.Lab is all about taking care of the environment, and this is the fundamental of the brand's everyday business. In Sanskrit, ahiṃsā means "cause no harm". To make new collections, the designers use recycled plastic recovered from the Pacific at Kamchatka, as well as bio-textiles like eco-bioflex, linen and eco-yarn. The new collection – Pulse of Nature – is a new attempt to focus on the environmental issues.
REEVOLUTION collection refers to the society's revolutionary spirit of the 20th century, when Russian design was coming into being and when the avant-garde art prospered. The historic implication of the collection manifests in elements of traditional peasant clothing, working uniform, and avant-garde geometry.
The fundamental image of this collection is the Swan Princess, half-human and half-bird. The new collection features usual everyday garments reconsidered through the experience of previous generations. A blouse features shoulder and cuff inserts that resemble swan wings and repeat the shape of traditional Russian headwear – a kokoshnik. The hoodie brings Russian undershirts in mind. The color palette embraces the hues typical for the Swan Princess, which are white, blue, and sand yellow.
CARROTroom is a brand by Diana Shimanovskaya. Its distinctive characteristics are comfort, omnitude and functionality, and every piece of clothing brings its wearer's uniqueness into the spotlight. UrbanIvan is a collection that reveals spiritual duality of a person dreaming of freedom in nature's lap instead of languishing in the concrete jungle. Traditional stripes and chequers emphasize the 'concrete' atmosphere articulated by the collection. Neutral achromatic hues so typical for an urban landscape add to the spirit of a city.
Inspiration for the new collection is the Soviet avant-garde aesthetics that resulted in hypertrophied extensive shapes and silhouettes. The monochromic palette lays emphasis on this style's austerity. The basic color of the collection is black.
Every by TRAVNIKOVA collection is a triumph of what the designer calls Dark Russian Kitsch, where modern urban clothing is coupled with a folk tale narration.
Ivan the Fool is a contemplation of the urban outdoor style, the Russian approach to menswear, and the Russian traditional culture. The name of the collection refers to a usual hero of local folk tales, and the designer reconsiders the looks of Ivan the Fool in compliance with the modern context. Although every piece is contemporary and easily fits into an everyday wardrobe, folk elements are quite pronounced. Long sleeves and multicolored trouser legs refer to Russian skomorokhs, whereas bright prints allude to illustrations in a book of bedtime stories.
This collection is the first one of Alira Kelbieva. Childhood Visions is a generalized view over her native country. References to the USSR can be traced in blankets from the Soviet era and the alphabet. The designer found inspiration in authentic setting of Khrushchev slums, fabric textures simulating the shabbiness and disrepair of their concrete walls.
hurma is a designer knitwear brand based on childhood motives, which determines their garments' palette of textures and colors, and combinations. Their new collection ZABAVA was inspired by Dymkov toys, hanbok and the noughties. The vivid color palette, abundant ornaments and prints that resemble painted toys represent Dymkov toys. The noughties are featured by the material choice – velour and atlas.
In her every collection, Dina Bazarbayeva attempts to reconcile the Russian and the Kazakhstani cultures. This time is no exception, either. Her CORD collection presents a woman through the lens of both cultural traditions. The cord became the leit-motif connecting all the pieces in the collection, and it has double meaning. On the one hand, it limits and binds, but on the other it symbolizes infinity and entwining similar to the one of DNA.
Online Academy of Branding and Design METRICS
This brand is known for their classical essentials and evening gowns that feature a combination of style, plainness and luxury. Their new collection AMO ('I love...' in Italian) is a story of love inspired by the tale of Cinderella. Basic elements of the looks are austere fits and humble fabrics complemented by highlights and pleats. Laconic, stylish and simple yet flawless outlines, luxury and comfort presented in soft hues – dusty rose, beige and milky white – this is a simple receipt of a dream wardrobe by Mattiozzi. There are some complex pieces with accents like folds and extensive sleeves.
In her every collection, Julia Kurenkova, founder and designer of Juli Jarvi, regards the so-called smart femininity as a matter of paramount importance. Her new collection KARSIKKO was inspired by Karelian deep lakes and dense woods, and so the entire collection is full of multilayered lines, multiple reliefs, and laid up fabrics. Combined textures, hand dyeing and extensive shapes are the key features of the looks. The color palette matches the natural belonging of the garments – basic hues are deep blue (like water) and bright green (like the woods), emphasized by other natural tints like soil stones, grass, and sky.
Every collection of the Volgograd-based brand ZO and its founder Olga Zakhmatova tends to architectural fits, combinations of strong and elegant lines, as well as sophisticated remarkable details. The new Confluence collection is a homage to the elegance age – 1930s, with their graceful contours, precise lines and cutting-edge insights. Most of the looks feature a combination of sportive style with fine femininity. Basic fabrics are jersey, silk, and tinsel.
From the very first day of her brand Natalia Maettig relied on convenience, personalization, utility and timelessness. At the same time, she supports reasonable consumption and stands against fast fashion. Showcasing complexity through simple things – this was the concept that Maetting brand started with. The new Upgrade collection was inspired by the notion of living in a metropolitan city. The designer tried to discover ways of living up to the beat of the city and still being yourself. The shero of the collection is a gifted and talented artist who wants to be perfect. Minimalism and romanticism match the architectural fits, which brings the bustling rhythm of a large city into focus. The palette embraces deep vivid colors – brown, dark blue, olive green and grey.
LEGASY is the collection dedicated to an old 19 manor once owned by Pavel Strelnikov. In the commercial premises, they produced and sold womenswear there in the 19th century. The color palette was inspired by the interior design of the room where the looks for the collection were designed. Dominating colors are black that refers to archaeological digging, grey that refers to roofing metal, and lemon yellow that refers to the ancient world. Highlights of purple completed the picture. Informal fit refers to lightness and euphoria – timeless emotions.
When establishing her brand, Yana Sergeyeva wanted to show the world that an old macramé technique can do much more than just bond hearts. That is why SEYANA offers a new contemporary look on this traditional craft. To find inspiration for her new collection, Yana traveled to Mykonos, where ethnic architecture, warm natural wood and golden sands helped her with the new looks. Despite the apparent plainness of the looks, it was obvious that each of them is perfect both for going out and for everyday activities – midi skirts decorated with fishing nets, and evening garments with fringed hems. Working on the new looks, the designer tried a new technique and combined fabric with handmade macramé. The color palette varies from classic black to soft powdery.
Kyle Ho (UK)
Spring-Summer 2022 by Kyle Ho is the designer's fourth fully-featured collection. Balancing between couture techniques and contemporary outlines, the designer demonstrates that menswear can be both trendy and modern. The designer explores the subject of the pandemic – the collection is dedicated to the "post-pandemic syndrome", which influenced a change in our relationship to nature and the home habitat, where all of us have spent so long. Color gradients featuring a sunrise to sundown transformation, asymmetrical details, layers of contrasting textures reflect movements and changes. The collection is made of cotton, silk and linen, without the use of synthetic fabrics. The collection also includes reproductions of watercolor paintings created in collaboration with architect Christophe Egret – they symbolize the kinetic energy and definitely impact on the color palette.
This emerging brand is a local one. It aims to preserve the cultural code of Buryatiya along with traditions and matrices of the nomadic culture. At MBFW Russia, designer Nadezhda presented her Wind Blows collection that is dedicated to relations between so different and sometimes controversial worlds – the human and the spiritual ones. Inspired by the works of Nam June Paik and Park Hyunki, and some other artists who explored the material and the illusive worlds, the designer showed the audience how a new reality was born – a combination of the natural and the digital.
This time, Elena Souproun found inspiration in the Silk Way that for several centuries had been the main shopping high road of the world. The name of the collection wasn't selected randomly – all the fabrics used to produce the new looks were brought from China. The collection embraces handmade silk, fine silk muslin, velvet, vintage jacquard and Duchess satin silk, crepe-satin, silk toile, satin cotton and Chantilly lace.
The new looks are mainly elegant evening garments that would look great both on the red carpet or a romantic date. The noble color palette where black chocolate, lilac, greyish black and navy-blue hues prevail makes the looks even more refined. Sophisticated handcrafts typical for Elena Souproun's garments weren't neglected, either. The audience was presented handmade embroidery with vintage mercuriated beads, toho beads and sequins, embroidery in silk, designer paintings – batik and gold leaf.
The brand follows guidelines of sustainable fashion, and that's why designers use in their work pieces purchased at sales and in second-hand stores and upcycle them into unique art objects. This catwalk show was powered by EcoLine, the top waste treatment operator for Moscow and the Moscow Region – together with Vtoroe Dykhanie Fund they collected clothing for the brand's new collection.
RigRaiser's philosophy stands on three pillars – style as a shape, awareness as a way, art as a mission. Moreover, in their work the designers suggest total denial of any trends. Their every collection designed in close collaboration with artists, who offer their view on art, features a message to be unriddled.
The new collection ATTENTION! once again reminded the audience about the need for resource redistribution and demonstrated that upcycling and recycling are not some meaningless words. Abandoning sophisticated and piled up patterns typical for the fashion world, RigRaiser turn to standard shapes and models, filling these with significant essence. At the same time, these standard shapes are made of plastic, metal, X-rays and cigarette butts, which contrast each other and once again remind of the collection's fundamental concept. The color palette brings into focus unification with nature – green, grey and black hues prevail in it.
Brazil Immersive Fashion Week presents LUCAS LEÃO (Brazil)
The new collection by the Brazilian designer is called AEther and presents the author's thoughts about living in an indefinite future where spiritual revival and a reconsidered notion of freedom will prevail. Clothes of the future by LUCAS LEÃO are casual and great for everyday wearing, and at the same time they are innovative and extraordinary. For instance, the designer suggests that puff coats are tucked like T-shirts, and adds a puff bag to a classic trench. Every look has its kind of armor protection the wearer from the future undiscovered.
The new collection of the brand is called Mirror and is based on the game of contrasts. Here, chiffon competes with organza, irregular fits contrasts on transparency of materials, masculinity of trouser suits emphasizes femininity of luxurious evening gowns. A trouser suit that has seemed quite common and even boring becomes provocative thanks to transparent fabrics and asymmetric fit. Prevailing colors of the collection are grey and silver, making the garments glimmer like a mirror and things seem delusive.
Title partner of the Fashion Week: Mercedes-Benz.
Partner of the Fashion Week: Museum of Moscow.
The Museum of Moscow was founded in 1896 and is located in the Proviant Warehouses, an architectural memorial of federal importance. Their collection comprises about 800 thous. pieces, including an extensive set of archaeological artifacts. The Museum of Moscow embraces several departments, which are the Moscow Museum of Archeology, the Gyliarovsky's Center, and the Lefortovo History Museum. https://mosmuseum.ru/
Partners of the Fashion Week: Sardinia (Official partner), NIVEA (Official partner), EcoLine (Official eco-partner), MONÉ PROFESSIONAL (Official stylist), Metropol (Official partner hotel), and Möbel&Zeit (Official supplier).
For a detailed protocol on sanitary provisions please check the official web-site of the event www.mercedesbenzfashionweek.ru
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